The Pup via Partial North Ridge (5.2S)
The Seal via East Face South Side (5.4S)
Harmon's Flatironette via East Face North Side (5.2)
November 10, 2013
Partner: Brian K.
Day 2 in the Flatirons! A little sore from the previous day's "Jurassic Traverse" we set a smaller goal for the day. Here are a few notes...
Partner: Brian K.
Day 2 in the Flatirons! A little sore from the previous day's "Jurassic Traverse" we set a smaller goal for the day. Here are a few notes...
The Pup via Partial North Ridge
Approach: Starting from NCAR (or the Bear Canyon TH), follow signs until you arrive at the intersection of the Mesa Trail and the turnoff into Bear Canyon. From this junction, head south on the Mesa Trail for approximately 100' and then take an unmarked climber's trail that heads up to the west. This is obviously a trail and will be obvious once you see it. Follow the steep trail up, pass the barred Harmon's Cave until the Seal appears above you. The Pup is the formation that leans against the center of the Seal's East Face and you should cut south on a trail while still staying to the east of the Pup. Find a large boulder-filled gash splitting the Pup's east face.
Route: Enter the gash and boulder hop to the west side of the Pup. Scramble up easy 5th class terrain on the worst lichen imaginable until you can work back east and arrive on the cleaner upper section of the north ridge. Follow it to the Pup's scenic summit. NOTE: The North Ridge actually comes up from further down, closer to the base of the Seal's East Face North, but the quality of climbing seems to be undesirable as well.
Descent: Carefully down-climb your route while constantly fighting the fear that your lichen-feet will peel off at any moment.
The Seal via East Face South Side
Approach: Starting from NCAR (or the Bear Canyon TH), follow signs until you arrive at the intersection of the Mesa Trail and the turnoff into Bear Canyon. From this junction, head south on the Mesa Trail for approximately 100' and then take an unmarked climber's trail that heads up to the west. This is obviously a trail and will be obvious once you see it. Follow the steep trail up, pass the barred Harmon's Cave until the Seal appears above you. The Pup is the formation that leans against the center of the Seal's East Face and you should cut south on a trail while still staying to the east of the Pup. Pass the Pup and under the Pup's steep south face where the toe of the Seal meets the Pup. This is the only easy place to get onto the Seal south of the Pup and it should be obvious.
Route:
P1 - 5.4S - Work up the large left facing dihedral formed up the Pup for about 20-30 feet. Take advantage of placing gear in the dihedral as it will not last for long. After 20-30 feet, find the most appealing place and smear left to reach easier rock. Work more or less directly upward to the large tree above slinging small flakes for protection. The final steep wall to the tree can be passed on easier terrain to the left. 120'
P2 - 5.0 - Cut hard left on easy terrain. Work as far left as you can until the cliff below you forces you upward. You will then see a gigantic chicken head appear above you. Climb slightly steeper rock to arrive at the monster chicken head and belay. 120'
P3 - 5.2 - Climb directly up the steeper yet more featured rock above sticking close to the left edge of the face. Pass a steeper bulge and belay on a small ledge near the left edge of the face. 180'
P4 - 5.2 - Pass one more steeper section immediately above the belay and the follow easier terrain as it curves back right to the summit. 190'
Descent: From the summit, down climb approximately 50 feet near the Seal's northern edge to reach 2 giant rappel chains. Make an airy 190 foot rappel down the north face to the ground. Two 60M ropes are a must.
Harmon's Flatironette via East Face North Side
Approach: Starting from NCAR (or the Bear Canyon TH), follow signs until you arrive at the intersection of the Mesa Trail and the turnoff into Bear Canyon. From this junction, head south on the Mesa Trail for approximately 100' and then take an unmarked climber's trail that heads up to the west. This is obviously a trail and will be obvious once you see it. Follow the steep trail up until Harmon's Flatironette pops into view. Harmon's Cave is in the lower portion of the formation and is obvious due to the large bars barring access to the whole cave. Be careful as the entrance to Harmon's Cave is permanently closed to the public and the surrounding area is normally closed annually from April through October. Check for closures.
Route: Start on the east facing slabs to the right (east) of the cave entrance. Climb upward while angling slightly to the south (left) until you are almost directly over the entrance to the cave. Climb up the edge under a left facing dihedral until it is possible to climb up onto it and gain a small false summit. Climb down to the west but not all the way to the ground. Angle north over an unusual arch and underneath a small but intimidating pinnacle. Climb the small pinnacle on the north side via some overhanging 4th class for a fun addition to the route. Follow easier rock up to the summit and enjoy the close-up view of the imposing Overhang Rock.
Descent: Scramble off to the south west (3rd class) and hike down until you reach the approach trail.
Approach: Starting from NCAR (or the Bear Canyon TH), follow signs until you arrive at the intersection of the Mesa Trail and the turnoff into Bear Canyon. From this junction, head south on the Mesa Trail for approximately 100' and then take an unmarked climber's trail that heads up to the west. This is obviously a trail and will be obvious once you see it. Follow the steep trail up, pass the barred Harmon's Cave until the Seal appears above you. The Pup is the formation that leans against the center of the Seal's East Face and you should cut south on a trail while still staying to the east of the Pup. Find a large boulder-filled gash splitting the Pup's east face.
Route: Enter the gash and boulder hop to the west side of the Pup. Scramble up easy 5th class terrain on the worst lichen imaginable until you can work back east and arrive on the cleaner upper section of the north ridge. Follow it to the Pup's scenic summit. NOTE: The North Ridge actually comes up from further down, closer to the base of the Seal's East Face North, but the quality of climbing seems to be undesirable as well.
Descent: Carefully down-climb your route while constantly fighting the fear that your lichen-feet will peel off at any moment.
The Seal via East Face South Side
Approach: Starting from NCAR (or the Bear Canyon TH), follow signs until you arrive at the intersection of the Mesa Trail and the turnoff into Bear Canyon. From this junction, head south on the Mesa Trail for approximately 100' and then take an unmarked climber's trail that heads up to the west. This is obviously a trail and will be obvious once you see it. Follow the steep trail up, pass the barred Harmon's Cave until the Seal appears above you. The Pup is the formation that leans against the center of the Seal's East Face and you should cut south on a trail while still staying to the east of the Pup. Pass the Pup and under the Pup's steep south face where the toe of the Seal meets the Pup. This is the only easy place to get onto the Seal south of the Pup and it should be obvious.
Route:
P1 - 5.4S - Work up the large left facing dihedral formed up the Pup for about 20-30 feet. Take advantage of placing gear in the dihedral as it will not last for long. After 20-30 feet, find the most appealing place and smear left to reach easier rock. Work more or less directly upward to the large tree above slinging small flakes for protection. The final steep wall to the tree can be passed on easier terrain to the left. 120'
P2 - 5.0 - Cut hard left on easy terrain. Work as far left as you can until the cliff below you forces you upward. You will then see a gigantic chicken head appear above you. Climb slightly steeper rock to arrive at the monster chicken head and belay. 120'
P3 - 5.2 - Climb directly up the steeper yet more featured rock above sticking close to the left edge of the face. Pass a steeper bulge and belay on a small ledge near the left edge of the face. 180'
P4 - 5.2 - Pass one more steeper section immediately above the belay and the follow easier terrain as it curves back right to the summit. 190'
Descent: From the summit, down climb approximately 50 feet near the Seal's northern edge to reach 2 giant rappel chains. Make an airy 190 foot rappel down the north face to the ground. Two 60M ropes are a must.
Harmon's Flatironette via East Face North Side
Approach: Starting from NCAR (or the Bear Canyon TH), follow signs until you arrive at the intersection of the Mesa Trail and the turnoff into Bear Canyon. From this junction, head south on the Mesa Trail for approximately 100' and then take an unmarked climber's trail that heads up to the west. This is obviously a trail and will be obvious once you see it. Follow the steep trail up until Harmon's Flatironette pops into view. Harmon's Cave is in the lower portion of the formation and is obvious due to the large bars barring access to the whole cave. Be careful as the entrance to Harmon's Cave is permanently closed to the public and the surrounding area is normally closed annually from April through October. Check for closures.
Route: Start on the east facing slabs to the right (east) of the cave entrance. Climb upward while angling slightly to the south (left) until you are almost directly over the entrance to the cave. Climb up the edge under a left facing dihedral until it is possible to climb up onto it and gain a small false summit. Climb down to the west but not all the way to the ground. Angle north over an unusual arch and underneath a small but intimidating pinnacle. Climb the small pinnacle on the north side via some overhanging 4th class for a fun addition to the route. Follow easier rock up to the summit and enjoy the close-up view of the imposing Overhang Rock.
Descent: Scramble off to the south west (3rd class) and hike down until you reach the approach trail.
