Squaw Rock via West Face (5.6 A0R)
March 4, 2012
After climbing the Pawnee Buttes last weekend, several of us headed out to climb the unknown Squaw Rock. Knowing nothing of the formation and armed only with a map showing nearby National Land, we set out to find a way to the base. We soon found ourselves within two miles of Squaw Rock and faced with a very clear sign. Determined to find a way in through public land, we set out on a wild goose chase on vague roads and across empty land. Finally, after trying numerous paths we gave up and headed home. We later found out that two members of our Butte Brigade (Steve and Jim) had climbed Squaw Rock by finding a way to within spitting distance of it through the National Grasslands. We kicked ourselves for missing the way in after looking so thoroughly, but only one week later found myself bumping across the Grasslands with Brian armed with a detailed map from Steve. The roads that lead out were vague but good and we soon were hiking across the plains. We were greeted by a very friendly herd of cattle and were surprised at how close they came to us. After walking through the middle of them, Squaw Rock began to loom overhead. It is quite imposing and we were glad that there was supposedly a weakness on the west side. Three old nails marked the start of the route. I reluctantly used one as a handhold (and only piece of "pro" for the route) and was able to gain a small ledge above. The "rock" was extremely poor and a fall would reach the ground so I carefully crawled along the ledge until I was able to establish myself on it when it widened. From there it was a simple scramble up to the unique dome of a summit. Brian followed the pitch carefully (any fall by him would also have been a groundfall) but quickly, and we took in the summit. The views were exceptional and a small audience of cows watched from below. The way out was easy and it felt good to get the peak that got away.
Big thanks to Steve for the awesome directions!!!
After climbing the Pawnee Buttes last weekend, several of us headed out to climb the unknown Squaw Rock. Knowing nothing of the formation and armed only with a map showing nearby National Land, we set out to find a way to the base. We soon found ourselves within two miles of Squaw Rock and faced with a very clear sign. Determined to find a way in through public land, we set out on a wild goose chase on vague roads and across empty land. Finally, after trying numerous paths we gave up and headed home. We later found out that two members of our Butte Brigade (Steve and Jim) had climbed Squaw Rock by finding a way to within spitting distance of it through the National Grasslands. We kicked ourselves for missing the way in after looking so thoroughly, but only one week later found myself bumping across the Grasslands with Brian armed with a detailed map from Steve. The roads that lead out were vague but good and we soon were hiking across the plains. We were greeted by a very friendly herd of cattle and were surprised at how close they came to us. After walking through the middle of them, Squaw Rock began to loom overhead. It is quite imposing and we were glad that there was supposedly a weakness on the west side. Three old nails marked the start of the route. I reluctantly used one as a handhold (and only piece of "pro" for the route) and was able to gain a small ledge above. The "rock" was extremely poor and a fall would reach the ground so I carefully crawled along the ledge until I was able to establish myself on it when it widened. From there it was a simple scramble up to the unique dome of a summit. Brian followed the pitch carefully (any fall by him would also have been a groundfall) but quickly, and we took in the summit. The views were exceptional and a small audience of cows watched from below. The way out was easy and it felt good to get the peak that got away.
Big thanks to Steve for the awesome directions!!!
Braving the herd.
