Overhang Rock via East Face to West Side (5.6S)
August 3, 2014
Partners: Brian & Sam
Brian and Sam joined me for another obscure Flatiron adventure as I've been slowly working my way through the named formations. Overhang Rock had been on my list for quite some time, but I'd been putting it off due to me fear of the upper pitch. Thankfully, Sam was enthusiastic and we ended up having a great time.
Approach:
Starting at the trailhead of your choosing, follow the Bear Canyon trail up into the start of the canyon. 39.972020, -105.284553
Continue up the trail until directly below the northern toe of Overhang Rock. Leave the trail and batter uphill, under the eastern side of the formation all the way up to the southern edge. The route starts slightly downhill from the obvious notch between the summit of Overhang Rock and the Southern Pinnacle at the only easy place to get onto the face.
Route:
P1 - 5.3 - Make a few slab moves to gain a vegetated, south-angling crack then follow it up and left to a tree. Climb steeper rock straight up to a sloping ledge and then follow it back easier terrain to belay at a tree in the notch. 100'
P1.5 - 5.4 - To climb the Southern Pinnacle, leave the notch and either climb the steep right edge of the pinnacle or traverse underneath it and climb easier terrain on the far side. The summit block can be slung with extra webbing to rappel back into the notch. 60'
P2 - 5.6S - Extend the belay into the notch to help with rope drag. Climb steeply up toward the summit on questionable rock passing two old pitons. The original route traverses hard right on bad rock over steep terrain. The "West Side" variation climbs left up into the obvious platform below the large overhang. Step up onto a ledge, clip a terrible piton, and then climb back right up toward the summit. 80'
Descent: Make a double rope rappel straight east to land back at the base of the route. Alternatively, make a single rappel back into the notch, then another rappel to the ground from the tree in the notch.
Gear:
1 each #0.5 - #4 Camalot.
1 set of nuts.
Long draws.
*This route took much less gear than expected. Expect runouts over poor gear on questionable rock.*
Thoughts: This is a worthwhile excursion from the usual slabby Flatiron routes. The summit of both Overhang Rock and the Southern Pinnacle are exceptional as are the views of the surrounding formations. Take care on the summit pitch as bad rock abounds and a fall would likely be severe.
Partners: Brian & Sam
Brian and Sam joined me for another obscure Flatiron adventure as I've been slowly working my way through the named formations. Overhang Rock had been on my list for quite some time, but I'd been putting it off due to me fear of the upper pitch. Thankfully, Sam was enthusiastic and we ended up having a great time.
Approach:
Starting at the trailhead of your choosing, follow the Bear Canyon trail up into the start of the canyon. 39.972020, -105.284553
Continue up the trail until directly below the northern toe of Overhang Rock. Leave the trail and batter uphill, under the eastern side of the formation all the way up to the southern edge. The route starts slightly downhill from the obvious notch between the summit of Overhang Rock and the Southern Pinnacle at the only easy place to get onto the face.
Route:
P1 - 5.3 - Make a few slab moves to gain a vegetated, south-angling crack then follow it up and left to a tree. Climb steeper rock straight up to a sloping ledge and then follow it back easier terrain to belay at a tree in the notch. 100'
P1.5 - 5.4 - To climb the Southern Pinnacle, leave the notch and either climb the steep right edge of the pinnacle or traverse underneath it and climb easier terrain on the far side. The summit block can be slung with extra webbing to rappel back into the notch. 60'
P2 - 5.6S - Extend the belay into the notch to help with rope drag. Climb steeply up toward the summit on questionable rock passing two old pitons. The original route traverses hard right on bad rock over steep terrain. The "West Side" variation climbs left up into the obvious platform below the large overhang. Step up onto a ledge, clip a terrible piton, and then climb back right up toward the summit. 80'
Descent: Make a double rope rappel straight east to land back at the base of the route. Alternatively, make a single rappel back into the notch, then another rappel to the ground from the tree in the notch.
Gear:
1 each #0.5 - #4 Camalot.
1 set of nuts.
Long draws.
*This route took much less gear than expected. Expect runouts over poor gear on questionable rock.*
Thoughts: This is a worthwhile excursion from the usual slabby Flatiron routes. The summit of both Overhang Rock and the Southern Pinnacle are exceptional as are the views of the surrounding formations. Take care on the summit pitch as bad rock abounds and a fall would likely be severe.
