The Maiden via North Face (5.6S)
July 24, 2013 AM
Crew: Glen
Crew: Glen
Approach: The approach to the Maiden is a beast and is miserable in hot weather. Start from the South Mesa Trail parking lot and follow the Mesa Trail. Several other trails are possible, but staying on the well-marked Mesa Trail is the easiest. Hike until you pass under the Maiden then look for a spur trail that turns off to the west. This is marked as Shadow Canyon and there is a small water trough that makes a good landmark right at the turnoff. Follow this new trail for a 100 yards or so and keep a sharp eye out for a very faint trail that leads up towards the Maiden into a talus field. A cairned trail will appear and follow the easy-to-follow path up straight to the base of the Maiden's East Ridge. Travel up under the formation's south side all the way up to the west side of the Maiden. Harness up underneath a small triangular wall.
Route:
P1 - 5.4S - Run it out up the narrow face and follow the path of least resistance. Basically a solo. 40'
P2 - 5.2 - Down climb the exposed knife-edge and be carefully to protect the second. Belay at the "Crow's Nest" below the impressive summit. 170'
P3 - 5.6+S - Follow ledges down onto the north face making for a ledge with a tree. When a short vertical wall blocks the way, look for a path upward. Clip an old piton and move precariously upward then left across the face. These moves are 5.6, but the easiest way isn't too obvious and the gear is finicky. 80'
P4 - 5.4S - Move the belay up to a nice stance above the tree. Traverse downward on a small ramp that leads across the north face while be careful to find the easiest way. After arriving at a small alcove, step out onto the face and work upward on pockets to reach a nice belay in an alcove. 80'
P5 - 5.3 - Squeeze up onto a nice ledge with a tree then ramble up the east face to the summit. 180'
Descent: The moment you've all been waiting for! Move to the west edge of the summit and make an spectacular 90' rappel back to the "Crow's Nest". A 60M will barely reach this ledge with zero wind. Locate a single eyebolt and make a 110' rappel down the south face back to the approach trail. The last rappel requires two 60M ropes but could likely be done with a single 70M.
Gear:
TCUs: 0 - 4
C4s: 0.5 - 4
Single set stoppers
Slings
2 60M ropes (or tagline) are required for the rappelling descent. Probably could be done with a single 70M instead.
Thoughts: This is one of the best summits in the Flatirons. The formation is outstanding, and unlike anything else around and should be considered a must do for all Flatiron climbers. Make sure that both the leader and the follower are solid at the grade as there is a lot of down-climbing and traversing where a fall poses a threat to both climbers. The traversing pitches generally lack protection and the exposure is fierce so take advantage of the opportunities you're given. The icing on the cake is the summit rappel and this will not be a climb you soon forget.
Route:
P1 - 5.4S - Run it out up the narrow face and follow the path of least resistance. Basically a solo. 40'
P2 - 5.2 - Down climb the exposed knife-edge and be carefully to protect the second. Belay at the "Crow's Nest" below the impressive summit. 170'
P3 - 5.6+S - Follow ledges down onto the north face making for a ledge with a tree. When a short vertical wall blocks the way, look for a path upward. Clip an old piton and move precariously upward then left across the face. These moves are 5.6, but the easiest way isn't too obvious and the gear is finicky. 80'
P4 - 5.4S - Move the belay up to a nice stance above the tree. Traverse downward on a small ramp that leads across the north face while be careful to find the easiest way. After arriving at a small alcove, step out onto the face and work upward on pockets to reach a nice belay in an alcove. 80'
P5 - 5.3 - Squeeze up onto a nice ledge with a tree then ramble up the east face to the summit. 180'
Descent: The moment you've all been waiting for! Move to the west edge of the summit and make an spectacular 90' rappel back to the "Crow's Nest". A 60M will barely reach this ledge with zero wind. Locate a single eyebolt and make a 110' rappel down the south face back to the approach trail. The last rappel requires two 60M ropes but could likely be done with a single 70M.
Gear:
TCUs: 0 - 4
C4s: 0.5 - 4
Single set stoppers
Slings
2 60M ropes (or tagline) are required for the rappelling descent. Probably could be done with a single 70M instead.
Thoughts: This is one of the best summits in the Flatirons. The formation is outstanding, and unlike anything else around and should be considered a must do for all Flatiron climbers. Make sure that both the leader and the follower are solid at the grade as there is a lot of down-climbing and traversing where a fall poses a threat to both climbers. The traversing pitches generally lack protection and the exposure is fierce so take advantage of the opportunities you're given. The icing on the cake is the summit rappel and this will not be a climb you soon forget.
The Morning After aka the Thing via East Face (5.7)
July 24, 2013 PM
Crew: James, Kate
Crew: James, Kate
Approach: Hike the Royal Arch trail all the way to the top of Sentinel Pass. At the pass, leave the trail and work more-or-less uphill while attempting to find
the climber's trail that leads up toward Green Mountain Pinnacle. Stay on the north side of both the Hammerhead and the Last Flatironette and keep your eyes peeled for the Morning After through the trees. Angle over toward the formation until you arrive at the base of the east face. The distinctive overhang on P2 will be very obvious from the ground.
Route:
P1 - 5.4 - Friction up the face and belay at a tree below the obvious overhang above. 80'
P2 - 5.7 - Make a few tricky moves through the well protected overhang then ramble up to a ledge with a few trees. Follow the fun and unique wide crack up to a hanging belay from a sappy tree. 180'
P3 - 5.4S - Run it out up the left side of the face to the summit. Roach calls this 5.2, but it seems too thin for that. 195'
Descent: From the summit arch, rappel 60' south from a threaded tunnel. Hike around the west side of the formation and descend the north side back to Sentinel Pass. Hiking down the south side is not easy to do.
Gear: This could easily be done with a single set of cams from 0.4-4 and a set of nuts.
Thoughts: The Morning After is also known as the Thing and sometimes called the Eye of the Needle. It is a distinct Flatiron formation and is made memorable by a small overhang on the lower face and a unique arch in the summit. The 5.7 crux is short, well protected, and generally much easier than many 5.7 routes in the area. This would be an excellent route to try as a first 5.7 climb.
the climber's trail that leads up toward Green Mountain Pinnacle. Stay on the north side of both the Hammerhead and the Last Flatironette and keep your eyes peeled for the Morning After through the trees. Angle over toward the formation until you arrive at the base of the east face. The distinctive overhang on P2 will be very obvious from the ground.
Route:
P1 - 5.4 - Friction up the face and belay at a tree below the obvious overhang above. 80'
P2 - 5.7 - Make a few tricky moves through the well protected overhang then ramble up to a ledge with a few trees. Follow the fun and unique wide crack up to a hanging belay from a sappy tree. 180'
P3 - 5.4S - Run it out up the left side of the face to the summit. Roach calls this 5.2, but it seems too thin for that. 195'
Descent: From the summit arch, rappel 60' south from a threaded tunnel. Hike around the west side of the formation and descend the north side back to Sentinel Pass. Hiking down the south side is not easy to do.
Gear: This could easily be done with a single set of cams from 0.4-4 and a set of nuts.
Thoughts: The Morning After is also known as the Thing and sometimes called the Eye of the Needle. It is a distinct Flatiron formation and is made memorable by a small overhang on the lower face and a unique arch in the summit. The 5.7 crux is short, well protected, and generally much easier than many 5.7 routes in the area. This would be an excellent route to try as a first 5.7 climb.
