Longs Peak via Kiener's Route (5.4 Mod. Snow)
7/25/2015
Partner: John Williams
14 miles
5,100' gain
Partner: John Williams
14 miles
5,100' gain
Getting up for Longs Peak never seems to get any easier. It amazes me how people can crank up Longs over and over again, especially when thinking about how much sleep you miss out on. It's true that I could get in awesome shape and run up there in half the time, but I'm lazy and it's never going to happen. I woke up promptly five minutes before the alarm went off at a wonderful 1:10am and proceeded to stumble through the process of getting ready. As I backed out the driveway, I thanked whatever inspiration I had to pack everything the previous day instead of my usual shovel crap into the car as I was leaving. We met in Loveland and drove sleepily up the canyon to arrive at the already full parking lot at 3:00am. Thankfully we were able to park right down the road, and soon were hiking up the familiar trail. Uphill progress went slowly and smoothly, but it was obvious that I hadn't been above 8,000 feet in more than a year. Small groups leapfrogged up the trail and I was not surprised to see a variety of hikers heading up the trail. Chasm Junction came before we knew it and we took a short break to watch headlamps working into Dreamweaver.
We arrived at Chasm Lake just as daylight was beginning to creep into the day. As we worked our way around the lake, I slowly remembered how much I did not enjoy this part the previous time I had done Kiener's. Our progress was low and sunlight hit before we arrived at the base of Lamb's Slide. There were several climbers heading up toward the lower east face and chasm view wall and high up in Lamb's Slide was a lone climber. Taking a break at the base of the couloir was a nice chance to take in the view while strapping crampons onto my trail runners. As we started up Lamb's Slide, the snow was in good shape for cramponing, but my shoes were a little more flexible than I would have liked. The other climber had topped out at the top of Lamb's Slide, and other than his prints, it did not seem that anybody else had been up yet for the day. One foot in front of the other, stopping occasionally to wheeze proved a decent way to gain elevation and about 30 minutes later I happily clawed up the scree onto the start of Broadway.
My memory was that crossing Broadway was the highlight of the climb, and it did not disappoint. We decided to simul-climb our way across and roped up at the nice ledge at the start. I led across the wonderfully easy, yet exposed ledge and enjoyed the position. The boulder step-around was just as great as I had remembered and we cruised until the base of the notch arrived. I led up a long pitch up steep, yet positive rock up the right edge of the notch couloir and belayed John up into a fun little chimney-like gully. We moved the belay a bit further up, untied and scrambled the second 5th class section up to the easier terrain above. The climbing was easy, the position was great and the rock grippy. We moved slowly toward the summit stopping to admire the exit from the Casual Route and the so called Diamond Step. The summit came abruptly and it was nice to be back on Longs again as it had been several year since I'd been on top. There were a handful of people on the summit, but a shockingly low number for a Saturday in the middle of the summer. We hung about for a while and chatted with a few other people on the top before deciding it was time to head down.
Starting down the north face was a nice reminder that we were done with the uphill for the day. Unfortunately, it was also a reminder that we were far from the car. Other than one short section of snow above the rappels, the decent was dry and we made two rappels down the north face and scrambled down to Chasm View. The hike out went smoothly and we took advantage of the good shortcuts on the descent. Longs is probably my favorite 14ers and the climb had been an excellent reminder why.
We arrived at Chasm Lake just as daylight was beginning to creep into the day. As we worked our way around the lake, I slowly remembered how much I did not enjoy this part the previous time I had done Kiener's. Our progress was low and sunlight hit before we arrived at the base of Lamb's Slide. There were several climbers heading up toward the lower east face and chasm view wall and high up in Lamb's Slide was a lone climber. Taking a break at the base of the couloir was a nice chance to take in the view while strapping crampons onto my trail runners. As we started up Lamb's Slide, the snow was in good shape for cramponing, but my shoes were a little more flexible than I would have liked. The other climber had topped out at the top of Lamb's Slide, and other than his prints, it did not seem that anybody else had been up yet for the day. One foot in front of the other, stopping occasionally to wheeze proved a decent way to gain elevation and about 30 minutes later I happily clawed up the scree onto the start of Broadway.
My memory was that crossing Broadway was the highlight of the climb, and it did not disappoint. We decided to simul-climb our way across and roped up at the nice ledge at the start. I led across the wonderfully easy, yet exposed ledge and enjoyed the position. The boulder step-around was just as great as I had remembered and we cruised until the base of the notch arrived. I led up a long pitch up steep, yet positive rock up the right edge of the notch couloir and belayed John up into a fun little chimney-like gully. We moved the belay a bit further up, untied and scrambled the second 5th class section up to the easier terrain above. The climbing was easy, the position was great and the rock grippy. We moved slowly toward the summit stopping to admire the exit from the Casual Route and the so called Diamond Step. The summit came abruptly and it was nice to be back on Longs again as it had been several year since I'd been on top. There were a handful of people on the summit, but a shockingly low number for a Saturday in the middle of the summer. We hung about for a while and chatted with a few other people on the top before deciding it was time to head down.
Starting down the north face was a nice reminder that we were done with the uphill for the day. Unfortunately, it was also a reminder that we were far from the car. Other than one short section of snow above the rappels, the decent was dry and we made two rappels down the north face and scrambled down to Chasm View. The hike out went smoothly and we took advantage of the good shortcuts on the descent. Longs is probably my favorite 14ers and the climb had been an excellent reminder why.
Summer Route aka Dry Conditions
Approach:
Starting at the standard Longs Peak trailhead, follow the well marked trail for about 4 miles to Chasm Lake. Skirt the lake on the right side following an intermittent climber's trail and then angle back left to the base of Lamb's Slide.
Route:
Lamb's Slide - Moderate Snow, 40-45° - Ascend the now obvious couloir for approximately 800 vertical feet, aiming for a small outcrop of black rock on the right side of the gully. Lamb's Slide is a fairly consistent angle from the bottom to the top and conditions can vary widely from avalanche-prone snow to alpine ice. The black rocks mark the exit onto Broadway and it is obviously the first place that allows easy access out of the snow. The Broadway ledge is not immediately apparent from here. Exit the snow onto an angling, gravelly ramp and scramble carefully up and right to where the ledge becomes obvious. There is a large, flat platform right at the beginning of Broadway that makes a convenient spot to gear up.
Broadway - 4th class - Step off the nice ledge onto the obvious, narrow walkway of Broadway. The crux is a short step around a large boulder that comes immediately after the start. Carefully step around the boulder with great feet, decent hands, and lots of air. This can be protected with a small nut before, and several fixed pitons after. After the boulder walk the easy class 2 ledge with large exposure to the base of the notch. One more exposed step must be passed right before the notch, but it is easier than the boulder move. If roped, expect 2 pitches or simul-climbing. 400'
P1 - 5.2-5.6 - Depending on the route taken, the difficulty can vary. Aiming for on obvious chimney-like gully to the right of the notch, climb up and right of the notch. Easier climbing brings you into the chimney from climber's left but a great, slightly harder variation climbs directly up to it from below and starts right at the bottom across from the notch. Short cruxes are interspersed with easier terrain and a nice belay can be found in the back of the chimney. 200'
P2 - 5.2-5.4 - From the back of the chimney, climb up and right into an obvious gully to a nice ledge. Either climb directly up harder terrain, or for the easiest way, walk to the far side of the ledge before starting up. Wander upward on easy 5th class until you reach the comfortable upper Kiener's. 200'
Upper Kiener's - 3rd/4th class - Ascend easier terrain while working up and right for approximately 800 vertical feet to the summit. Many paths can be taking, but generally sticking closer to the east face provides some exciting views of the Diamond. Near the summit a large, vertical headwall must be passed on climber's right via steep steps to arrive at the "Diamond Step". From here simply work back west a few hundred feet to arrive promptly at the summit.
Descent:
Easiest descent is off of the North Face. The route finding is not hard, but is not obvious if you have never gone that way. Work down from the summit to the NE looking sharply for a trail or cairns. Eventually, a path will emerge and follow it to the large rappel bolts at the top of the north face slabs. 1-2 snow fields may need to be crossed.
R1 - Ignore the highest eyebolt and scramble 20 feet down to another one over a nice flat stance. Rappel straight down to whichever bolt your rope reaches, this will depend on ropelength. A 60M can reach a nice stance. 80'
R2 - Make another rappel as far as you can. A short snow patch or slab downclimb may be needed, but will not be more than 4th class. 200'
Simply follow a small climber's trail past Chasm View and down until it intersects the Keyhole Trail right before the campsites. From here follow the great Keyhole trail out. 2 great shortcuts can be had by following the Jim's Grove trail and then the "Fireman's Cuttoff" close to the bottom.
Gear: Depends on your comfort level. Would be a good solo or can be protected comfortably with a set of nuts and tricams. Ice axe and crampons will be needed for Lamb's Slide.
Approach:
Starting at the standard Longs Peak trailhead, follow the well marked trail for about 4 miles to Chasm Lake. Skirt the lake on the right side following an intermittent climber's trail and then angle back left to the base of Lamb's Slide.
Route:
Lamb's Slide - Moderate Snow, 40-45° - Ascend the now obvious couloir for approximately 800 vertical feet, aiming for a small outcrop of black rock on the right side of the gully. Lamb's Slide is a fairly consistent angle from the bottom to the top and conditions can vary widely from avalanche-prone snow to alpine ice. The black rocks mark the exit onto Broadway and it is obviously the first place that allows easy access out of the snow. The Broadway ledge is not immediately apparent from here. Exit the snow onto an angling, gravelly ramp and scramble carefully up and right to where the ledge becomes obvious. There is a large, flat platform right at the beginning of Broadway that makes a convenient spot to gear up.
Broadway - 4th class - Step off the nice ledge onto the obvious, narrow walkway of Broadway. The crux is a short step around a large boulder that comes immediately after the start. Carefully step around the boulder with great feet, decent hands, and lots of air. This can be protected with a small nut before, and several fixed pitons after. After the boulder walk the easy class 2 ledge with large exposure to the base of the notch. One more exposed step must be passed right before the notch, but it is easier than the boulder move. If roped, expect 2 pitches or simul-climbing. 400'
P1 - 5.2-5.6 - Depending on the route taken, the difficulty can vary. Aiming for on obvious chimney-like gully to the right of the notch, climb up and right of the notch. Easier climbing brings you into the chimney from climber's left but a great, slightly harder variation climbs directly up to it from below and starts right at the bottom across from the notch. Short cruxes are interspersed with easier terrain and a nice belay can be found in the back of the chimney. 200'
P2 - 5.2-5.4 - From the back of the chimney, climb up and right into an obvious gully to a nice ledge. Either climb directly up harder terrain, or for the easiest way, walk to the far side of the ledge before starting up. Wander upward on easy 5th class until you reach the comfortable upper Kiener's. 200'
Upper Kiener's - 3rd/4th class - Ascend easier terrain while working up and right for approximately 800 vertical feet to the summit. Many paths can be taking, but generally sticking closer to the east face provides some exciting views of the Diamond. Near the summit a large, vertical headwall must be passed on climber's right via steep steps to arrive at the "Diamond Step". From here simply work back west a few hundred feet to arrive promptly at the summit.
Descent:
Easiest descent is off of the North Face. The route finding is not hard, but is not obvious if you have never gone that way. Work down from the summit to the NE looking sharply for a trail or cairns. Eventually, a path will emerge and follow it to the large rappel bolts at the top of the north face slabs. 1-2 snow fields may need to be crossed.
R1 - Ignore the highest eyebolt and scramble 20 feet down to another one over a nice flat stance. Rappel straight down to whichever bolt your rope reaches, this will depend on ropelength. A 60M can reach a nice stance. 80'
R2 - Make another rappel as far as you can. A short snow patch or slab downclimb may be needed, but will not be more than 4th class. 200'
Simply follow a small climber's trail past Chasm View and down until it intersects the Keyhole Trail right before the campsites. From here follow the great Keyhole trail out. 2 great shortcuts can be had by following the Jim's Grove trail and then the "Fireman's Cuttoff" close to the bottom.
Gear: Depends on your comfort level. Would be a good solo or can be protected comfortably with a set of nuts and tricams. Ice axe and crampons will be needed for Lamb's Slide.
