The Kingfisher via Colorado NE Ridge (5.8 C2)
April 20, 2012
After our recent success on the Titan, Noah and I decided that a trip back was prudent. The Kingfisher's famous Colorado NE Ridge was the logical choice, and we relaxed knowing that it would be easier than the Finger of Fate. As we made plans, Derek contacted me and expressed an interest in coming along. Surprised that somebody else would be interested in grubby aid-climbing, I met up with him to chat about our potential climb. Derek was a fine fellow and his experience in chossy aiding seemed more than enough for the Kingfisher. Noah and I met up with Joe from 14ers.com (stoneman) who wanted to climb South Sixshooter and made for the Fishers. We rumbled sleepily into the parking lot after midnight and quickly tossed our bags onto the familiar and dusty parking lot.
Morning came quickly, packing went smoothly and it wasn't long before Derek, Noah and I were trudging up the steep slope to the base of the route. Here is what I jotted down in my notebook after the climb...
"Kingfisher is the 2nd tallest tower in the Fisher Towers and the CO NE Ridge was the 2nd route put up on one of the major towers. Harvey Carter made the FA after coming for the Titan and discovering Kor had climbed it a week prior. Noah, Derek and I climbed this in approx. 6 1/2 hours bottom to top.
Leads: P1-2 - Derek 5.8 C0
P3 - Noah C2
P4-5 - Me 5.7 C1
P6 - Derek 5.8
Route: P1 - C0 - Bolt Ladder
P2 - 5.8 - Chimney. Ok gear.
P3 - 5.7+ C2 - Sketchy free moves off belay lead to pin. Free/aid lead to crux boxed-out scars. Stick clip.
P4 - C0 - Free/blind C1 placements lead to long bolt ladder.
P5 - C1 - Tension left and strenuously aid over 3-4" roof (C1). From ledge, follow C0 ladder to 5.6+ free moves to belay (spacious!).
P6 - Follow 5.8 crack to summit.
Thoughts: Classic route! Pretty straight forward aid but still plenty of work. Stick clip works well on the crux. Loved that core-shot-filled rope! Linked P1-2 & P4-5."
After our recent success on the Titan, Noah and I decided that a trip back was prudent. The Kingfisher's famous Colorado NE Ridge was the logical choice, and we relaxed knowing that it would be easier than the Finger of Fate. As we made plans, Derek contacted me and expressed an interest in coming along. Surprised that somebody else would be interested in grubby aid-climbing, I met up with him to chat about our potential climb. Derek was a fine fellow and his experience in chossy aiding seemed more than enough for the Kingfisher. Noah and I met up with Joe from 14ers.com (stoneman) who wanted to climb South Sixshooter and made for the Fishers. We rumbled sleepily into the parking lot after midnight and quickly tossed our bags onto the familiar and dusty parking lot.
Morning came quickly, packing went smoothly and it wasn't long before Derek, Noah and I were trudging up the steep slope to the base of the route. Here is what I jotted down in my notebook after the climb...
"Kingfisher is the 2nd tallest tower in the Fisher Towers and the CO NE Ridge was the 2nd route put up on one of the major towers. Harvey Carter made the FA after coming for the Titan and discovering Kor had climbed it a week prior. Noah, Derek and I climbed this in approx. 6 1/2 hours bottom to top.
Leads: P1-2 - Derek 5.8 C0
P3 - Noah C2
P4-5 - Me 5.7 C1
P6 - Derek 5.8
Route: P1 - C0 - Bolt Ladder
P2 - 5.8 - Chimney. Ok gear.
P3 - 5.7+ C2 - Sketchy free moves off belay lead to pin. Free/aid lead to crux boxed-out scars. Stick clip.
P4 - C0 - Free/blind C1 placements lead to long bolt ladder.
P5 - C1 - Tension left and strenuously aid over 3-4" roof (C1). From ledge, follow C0 ladder to 5.6+ free moves to belay (spacious!).
P6 - Follow 5.8 crack to summit.
Thoughts: Classic route! Pretty straight forward aid but still plenty of work. Stick clip works well on the crux. Loved that core-shot-filled rope! Linked P1-2 & P4-5."
South Sixshooter via South Face (5.6+)
April 21, 2012
After climbing the Kingfisher, we headed down and slept on the side of the road outside of Indian Creek. Noah and Derek had decided to attempt the classic and challenging North Sixshooter while Joe, Scott Patterson and I would climb the moderate classic South Sixshooter. Here is what I jotted down in my notebook after the climb...
"South Sixshooter is a small tower that rests on a large cone of talus and scree.It is a smaller and friendlier version of the nearby North Sixshooter. The rock is solid and the climbing straight forward. It is likely the easiest tower in the area.
Route: P1 - 5.6 - Starts on the far left side of the wall. Lead up easy/broken terrain until a chimney leads up and right (not visible from below). 100'
P2 - 5.4 - Lead up the exposed and runout fin followed by a ledge traverse to below final pitch. 110'
P3 - 5.7+ - 0.5 protects the start to a strange mantel. Clip bolt and make final moves to the top. 20'
P4 - True summit. From below P3. Make a finger traverse right to gain a steep and juggy crack to true summit.
Thoughts: This is a fun and mellow route. Climbed it with Joe and Scott P. and lead P2 and P4. Interesting that the route does not go to the true summit. The crux on P3 seems stout and the large rocking block does not inspire confidence."
The next day Scott took Joe and I around to see some neat ruin sites. We then parted ways and Joe, Noah and I attempted Looking Glass Rock but were unable to climb due to large numbers of rattlesnakes lining the bottom of the route (approx. 20 snakes). Another great trip!
After climbing the Kingfisher, we headed down and slept on the side of the road outside of Indian Creek. Noah and Derek had decided to attempt the classic and challenging North Sixshooter while Joe, Scott Patterson and I would climb the moderate classic South Sixshooter. Here is what I jotted down in my notebook after the climb...
"South Sixshooter is a small tower that rests on a large cone of talus and scree.It is a smaller and friendlier version of the nearby North Sixshooter. The rock is solid and the climbing straight forward. It is likely the easiest tower in the area.
Route: P1 - 5.6 - Starts on the far left side of the wall. Lead up easy/broken terrain until a chimney leads up and right (not visible from below). 100'
P2 - 5.4 - Lead up the exposed and runout fin followed by a ledge traverse to below final pitch. 110'
P3 - 5.7+ - 0.5 protects the start to a strange mantel. Clip bolt and make final moves to the top. 20'
P4 - True summit. From below P3. Make a finger traverse right to gain a steep and juggy crack to true summit.
Thoughts: This is a fun and mellow route. Climbed it with Joe and Scott P. and lead P2 and P4. Interesting that the route does not go to the true summit. The crux on P3 seems stout and the large rocking block does not inspire confidence."
The next day Scott took Joe and I around to see some neat ruin sites. We then parted ways and Joe, Noah and I attempted Looking Glass Rock but were unable to climb due to large numbers of rattlesnakes lining the bottom of the route (approx. 20 snakes). Another great trip!
