Grand Teton via Direct Exum Ridge (5.7)
August 10, 2012
Glen and I decided that it was way overdue to visit the Tetons and we decided on attempted the classic Direct Exum Ridge as our first venture in the park. The hike to the upper saddle was fairly brutal carrying up all the gear and the afternoon heat was nearly unbearable. It was fun to run into Sarah, Dominic and Pete's group and enjoyed having some more Coloradans around. We managed to nab the best campsite on the saddle that was furthest from the toilet and closet to the water. We got up early the next day and made our way to the base of the ridge just before dawn. Somehow we managed to miss the 4th class "ramp" that leads to the first pitch and ended up traversing across a low 5th class ramp that put us right below the second pitch. The lower route proved quite challenging to stay on route and the correct path was not always obvious. The famous Black Face didn't disappoint, and both it and the pitch above it were steep, exposed and beautiful climbing. Once at Wall Street, we coiled the rope and moved up quickly. We kept our eyes peeled for the well-known Friction Pitch and the V Pitch but weren't sure if we climbed them or missed them. It wasn't long before we stood alone on the summit of the Grand and reveled in the experience. Just as we were about to leave, a party of 3 AMGA guides showed up and asked if we wanted to share ropes for the rappel. The descent went smoothly and my knees were glad to be back in camp. Deciding to stay for an extra night proved thrilling as a massive lightning and hail storm threatened to blow us away. We woke to wind and clouds and were glad to have climbed the day before. The hike out was very enjoyable and made me want to get back to the Tetons as soon as possible.
Glen and I decided that it was way overdue to visit the Tetons and we decided on attempted the classic Direct Exum Ridge as our first venture in the park. The hike to the upper saddle was fairly brutal carrying up all the gear and the afternoon heat was nearly unbearable. It was fun to run into Sarah, Dominic and Pete's group and enjoyed having some more Coloradans around. We managed to nab the best campsite on the saddle that was furthest from the toilet and closet to the water. We got up early the next day and made our way to the base of the ridge just before dawn. Somehow we managed to miss the 4th class "ramp" that leads to the first pitch and ended up traversing across a low 5th class ramp that put us right below the second pitch. The lower route proved quite challenging to stay on route and the correct path was not always obvious. The famous Black Face didn't disappoint, and both it and the pitch above it were steep, exposed and beautiful climbing. Once at Wall Street, we coiled the rope and moved up quickly. We kept our eyes peeled for the well-known Friction Pitch and the V Pitch but weren't sure if we climbed them or missed them. It wasn't long before we stood alone on the summit of the Grand and reveled in the experience. Just as we were about to leave, a party of 3 AMGA guides showed up and asked if we wanted to share ropes for the rappel. The descent went smoothly and my knees were glad to be back in camp. Deciding to stay for an extra night proved thrilling as a massive lightning and hail storm threatened to blow us away. We woke to wind and clouds and were glad to have climbed the day before. The hike out was very enjoyable and made me want to get back to the Tetons as soon as possible.
Grand Teton via Exum Direct from Brian Crim on Vimeo.
