Finger Flatiron via East Face 5.4+S
November 2, 2013
Partners: James & Kate
Approach: Follow the Mallory Cave trail until you arrive at the final scramble up into the cave. There will be a small sign bolted onto the rock that says Mallory Cave Trail. Rope up here as the Finger Flatiron is right above you.
Route:
P1 - 5.2+ - Climb directly up from the trail and pass through a steep, lichen-filled slot to pass the initial overhang. Curve slightly left and amble up broken rock then a runout face to belay at a tree. 150'
P2 - 5.0 - Work carefully up passing over numerous large and loose blocks. The popular Mallory Cave Amphitheater is directly below and anything you knock loose can fall directly onto unsuspecting hikers directly below you. Gain a rubble-gully and cautiously work around it to belay at another large tree on the face. 100'
P3 - 5.4+S - From the tree chimney up the gash above you toward the two overhanging cracks above. Jam the 2 overhangs with suspect gear via good moves that feel significantly harder than the 5.4 rating (maybe there is another way to bypass the cracks) and reach a notch toward the right side of the face. Launch leftward onto the smooth face and zigzag your way upward trying to follow the path of least resistance. This is smooth, very runout and demands caution as a slip would put you below your belayers a hundred feet below. Eventually the terrain eases slightly and you can paddle directly up to the summit and belay from the wad of rappel slings up top. 195'
Descent: Rappel 70' to the north and then hike out on the Mallory Cave Trail.
Gear: Can easily be done with a single set of cams (#4 helpful in the overhangs) and a set of nuts. P3 wanders so longs slings a must.
Thoughts: This is easily the hardest 5.4 route I've done in the Flatirons. It is quite possible that I missed the easiest way, but the crux pitch is quite the attention getter due to the overhangs and the massive run-out above. That said, the summit is spectacular and offers splendid views of the Fee-Fi-Fo-Fum stratum as well as a unique glimpse down onto the Shark's Fin.
Partners: James & Kate
Approach: Follow the Mallory Cave trail until you arrive at the final scramble up into the cave. There will be a small sign bolted onto the rock that says Mallory Cave Trail. Rope up here as the Finger Flatiron is right above you.
Route:
P1 - 5.2+ - Climb directly up from the trail and pass through a steep, lichen-filled slot to pass the initial overhang. Curve slightly left and amble up broken rock then a runout face to belay at a tree. 150'
P2 - 5.0 - Work carefully up passing over numerous large and loose blocks. The popular Mallory Cave Amphitheater is directly below and anything you knock loose can fall directly onto unsuspecting hikers directly below you. Gain a rubble-gully and cautiously work around it to belay at another large tree on the face. 100'
P3 - 5.4+S - From the tree chimney up the gash above you toward the two overhanging cracks above. Jam the 2 overhangs with suspect gear via good moves that feel significantly harder than the 5.4 rating (maybe there is another way to bypass the cracks) and reach a notch toward the right side of the face. Launch leftward onto the smooth face and zigzag your way upward trying to follow the path of least resistance. This is smooth, very runout and demands caution as a slip would put you below your belayers a hundred feet below. Eventually the terrain eases slightly and you can paddle directly up to the summit and belay from the wad of rappel slings up top. 195'
Descent: Rappel 70' to the north and then hike out on the Mallory Cave Trail.
Gear: Can easily be done with a single set of cams (#4 helpful in the overhangs) and a set of nuts. P3 wanders so longs slings a must.
Thoughts: This is easily the hardest 5.4 route I've done in the Flatirons. It is quite possible that I missed the easiest way, but the crux pitch is quite the attention getter due to the overhangs and the massive run-out above. That said, the summit is spectacular and offers splendid views of the Fee-Fi-Fo-Fum stratum as well as a unique glimpse down onto the Shark's Fin.
