Owl Rock via West Crack (5.8)
Elephant Butte via West Fins (5.3)
5/13/2009
Wanting to get some nice early season backpacking, my friends and I hit the Maze District of Canyonlands. On the way back to CO we decided to stop by Arches NP. After climbing the popular Owl Rock, we still had most of the day open.
I had read several trip reports of Elephant Butte and was intrigued by the vague descriptions promising tons of scrambling and several rappels (one on the ascent even!). We decided to give it a go. This is truly a wonderful scramble to a national park highpoint and one I would highly recommend. Hopefully this trip report will help anyone else who wants to experience this great summit.
Park at the Garden of Eden viewpoint right before the famous Double O arch. The gully you want to enter is not immediately visible. Here is the view of Owl Rock with Elephant Butte in the background from the car.
Hike towards and then around Owl Rock. Keep hiking around the right side of Elephant Butte looking for a steep gully between two fins filled with large boulders. In the photo it is the one on the left and does not seem the obvious choice from below.
After some fun and steep scrambling (only class 3 if you search for it) the gully narrows and you hit the first obstacle. It is a fin of rock that comes down and has a steep start. The photo is looking back down the gully from above with the fin visible below.
Above this is where we found the first cairn. Once up the fin, ignore the steep chute leading up and right and search for a crack that allows access into a clearing straight ahead.
A short distance up this clearing opens up into a wash that leads up and to the right into a second clearing. This is the view of the second clearing standing on top of the wash. The wash leading up in the background is where the route leads next.
Follow the next wash in the back of the clearing up as it gets steeper, eventually leading to a wall.
This was the crux of the route for us. I believe the steps on the left are rated 5.4. Although it is short, it is steep and a slip would send you rolling down the slickrock about 20 feet or so making a belay not a bad idea. This picture was taken at the base of the wall looking back down.
Once up this, continue up to the highpoint and be rewarded with the first views of the summit plateau.
Carefully follow the slickrock down and the rappel anchors will come into view. There were 5 solid hangers (one was a bit of a spinner) that make the descent very simple.
Once everyone is down, scramble down a steep wash down into the next clearing. Here is a photo of someone coming down.
This last clearing is very neat and even has a small slot worth exploring.
From here simply start scrambling up the slickrock towards the summit. It was mostly class 3 with possible class 4 sections.
Look carefully up towards the right as the second cairn comes into view. It is marking a weakness that allows easier access up to the next level.
Once up past the cairn, the final difficulty comes into view.
This last bit is class 4 but is not terribly exposed and over quickly. It was the excitement to be on this elusive summit that propelled us over.
From here it simply is a stroll up to the summit roster. The register is one of the most interesting ones I've ever seen. The Butte is so seldom climbed that there were some historical entries.
The view of delicate arch was also pretty awesome as it is a speck.
For the descent, don't aim for the clearing you started up the final ascent in. Instead, head straight down the steep slickrock and look carefully for the last cairn that marks the correct gully.
This gully leads you down past some water to the next rappel station. This one is a blast as the last bit is overhanging.
From here there simply head down the gully and you'll find yourself not far from the one you entered to start the climb. A short hike back around leads right back to the car. This climb is tremendous and offers a wonderful sense of solitude and adventure in a very touristy place. Hopefully this will help anyone who is interested in doing something a bit different!
Wanting to get some nice early season backpacking, my friends and I hit the Maze District of Canyonlands. On the way back to CO we decided to stop by Arches NP. After climbing the popular Owl Rock, we still had most of the day open.
I had read several trip reports of Elephant Butte and was intrigued by the vague descriptions promising tons of scrambling and several rappels (one on the ascent even!). We decided to give it a go. This is truly a wonderful scramble to a national park highpoint and one I would highly recommend. Hopefully this trip report will help anyone else who wants to experience this great summit.
Park at the Garden of Eden viewpoint right before the famous Double O arch. The gully you want to enter is not immediately visible. Here is the view of Owl Rock with Elephant Butte in the background from the car.
Hike towards and then around Owl Rock. Keep hiking around the right side of Elephant Butte looking for a steep gully between two fins filled with large boulders. In the photo it is the one on the left and does not seem the obvious choice from below.
After some fun and steep scrambling (only class 3 if you search for it) the gully narrows and you hit the first obstacle. It is a fin of rock that comes down and has a steep start. The photo is looking back down the gully from above with the fin visible below.
Above this is where we found the first cairn. Once up the fin, ignore the steep chute leading up and right and search for a crack that allows access into a clearing straight ahead.
A short distance up this clearing opens up into a wash that leads up and to the right into a second clearing. This is the view of the second clearing standing on top of the wash. The wash leading up in the background is where the route leads next.
Follow the next wash in the back of the clearing up as it gets steeper, eventually leading to a wall.
This was the crux of the route for us. I believe the steps on the left are rated 5.4. Although it is short, it is steep and a slip would send you rolling down the slickrock about 20 feet or so making a belay not a bad idea. This picture was taken at the base of the wall looking back down.
Once up this, continue up to the highpoint and be rewarded with the first views of the summit plateau.
Carefully follow the slickrock down and the rappel anchors will come into view. There were 5 solid hangers (one was a bit of a spinner) that make the descent very simple.
Once everyone is down, scramble down a steep wash down into the next clearing. Here is a photo of someone coming down.
This last clearing is very neat and even has a small slot worth exploring.
From here simply start scrambling up the slickrock towards the summit. It was mostly class 3 with possible class 4 sections.
Look carefully up towards the right as the second cairn comes into view. It is marking a weakness that allows easier access up to the next level.
Once up past the cairn, the final difficulty comes into view.
This last bit is class 4 but is not terribly exposed and over quickly. It was the excitement to be on this elusive summit that propelled us over.
From here it simply is a stroll up to the summit roster. The register is one of the most interesting ones I've ever seen. The Butte is so seldom climbed that there were some historical entries.
The view of delicate arch was also pretty awesome as it is a speck.
For the descent, don't aim for the clearing you started up the final ascent in. Instead, head straight down the steep slickrock and look carefully for the last cairn that marks the correct gully.
This gully leads you down past some water to the next rappel station. This one is a blast as the last bit is overhanging.
From here there simply head down the gully and you'll find yourself not far from the one you entered to start the climb. A short hike back around leads right back to the car. This climb is tremendous and offers a wonderful sense of solitude and adventure in a very touristy place. Hopefully this will help anyone who is interested in doing something a bit different!
